Let us be clear: yes, these two builds are not going to win any awards in horsepower or dominate 2025 games. Instead, they are both all about value in both the short(ish) and long(ish) term. This is not to say that they are not powerful in the CPU department; they just will not be overkill like the higher-tier options. Put another way, both offer levels of processing power that would make a five-year-old flagship CPU green with envy… but by “one hundred & one score and five years” (aka 2025 C.E.) standards, that is merely ‘good enough’ when compared to the CPU beasts AMD and Intel are offering. So, instead of trying to think in terms of how much work they can do (both are more than up to the task), it is best to consider the compromises they both make in order to hit their price points… which are radically different from one another.
As such, the first thing to think about is Intel vs. AMD. If you either have little care for video gaming or plan on adding a “GPU”/video card later (say, after another paycheck period… and we have all been there at one point or another in our lives), the Intel option offers better processing power and flexibility than the AMD option. Basically, 6 P-cores + 8 E-cores will, in many tasks, trump 8 ‘real’ cores with no low-power ‘e’ cores. Make no mistake, the AMD option is still a very good processor, but it is an APU, not a CPU. Thus, while its integrated GPU is actually worthy of being called a GPU… that video horsepower comes at the expense of “CPU”/general processing power.
Make no mistake, these APUs are insanely “grunty” by APU standards; it’s just a case where APU standards are not even remotely the same as CPU standards. Thus, it is not as capable as the Core 5 and its P+E cores at general processing tasks but blows the Intel iGPU out of the water when it comes to handling “video card” tasks, as Intel iGPUs are designed mainly for satisfying the 2D video needs of office workers.
As such, the 8-core AMD APU is a good “as is, where is” / “no planned upgrades” build option but is less than optimal if you are going to be sticking a dedicated/discrete video card in there now or at some point in the future. This, however, brings us to the 6-core APU which does something the Intel Core 3 options used to offer: an even lower asking price with still more than merely “good enough” processing power.As such, the choice is clear: pick Intel if you want a build that prioritizes flexibility and upgradability. Pick AMD if you have little intention of adding anything to the system later and/or you want to save as much money on the build as possible while still being well above “good enough” performance levels.
Next up is the case. This choice is a bit more tricky as you’re not just picking out a metal box. Instead, you are actually deciding what kind of building experience you want to have, what kind of identity your final build is going to display, and most importantly, how happy you’ll be with its cooling, expansion, and usability in the years to come. This is why we would offer two choices for your consideration.
First up, we have the MSI Gungnir 100, which represents a category of cases we would describe as being a “straight shooter.” It’s compact and designed for people who don’t want building a system to become a saga where “the journey is more important than the destination.” Generally speaking, it is a good representation of the “classical approach” to system building. If this isn’t your first rodeo, you’ve probably seen or even owned cases like this before. So, while this case might not scream for attention, it offers the kind of reliability and straightforwardness that makes sense for most average users.
As such, if you want to put together a system that’s school- and office-friendly, this is the kind of case that you can expect to get the job done without much pretentiousness. Put another way, it is the PC case version of a boring but reliable Honda Civic. So, yes, it may not be as flashy as some cases, but this is a decent case that “just works.” It is as easy to build with as it is to get the final build’s aesthetics to play nicely with a room’s overall aesthetics.
This leads us to the MPG Velox 300R Airflow PZ. Where the Gungrir 100 feels like a “boring” compact sedan, this PZ case goes all in on the more modern aesthetics… as it is a Project Zero case. Project Zero is MSI’s speak for putting all the major motherboard cable headers on the back of the board for an easier “out of sight, out of mind” approach to system building. Meaning much more room on the back of the case for cable tidying and easier working conditions for big hands. Make no mistake, while it is indeed true that the “PZ” stands for Project Zero… that does not mean you have to use a PZ motherboard. Instead, this case takes a universal approach and has cutouts for both project zero and non-project zero boards. Basically, making it as future-proof as a case can be these days.
And that’s key here: future-proofing. Yes, both offer good to very good cooling. Both can handle a lot of goodies. The MPG Velox 300R Airflow PZ just offers more of everything… almost as if the design team wanted to make a case that was known for its consistency and reliability but also one that is fun to work with. Here we are talking a wide-open interior that not only offers rad mounts that acknowledge the popularity of AIO cooling solutions… but actually allow (in the real-world) for multiple AIOs to be used at the same time (i.e. CPU AIO + GPU AIO configurations should play nice with this case). We are talking about downright spacious cable back area with sane routing channels baked in to the design. We are talking GPU clearance specs that are generous even for monstrously oversized “modern” GPUs. Bluntly stated it down right invites creativity even in the most accountant-esque of personalities. Be it leaning all the way into Las Vegas lightshows… or leaning the other way with a super clean build that even an ascetic monk would find little to complain about.
So while the simple case might seem like a simple purchase… it is anything but simple. Just rest assured that you really can’t go wrong with either. You will just have to decide if you want a more conservative-looking or a more modern-looking case… as that really will be the major deciding factor between the two. Everything else can be worked with / around without too many issues or effort. All we can say is… when in doubt, the 300R PZ is worth the extra coin. The added flexibility should pay dividends in the coming years.
In this vein of future dividends, we would typically opt for an mITX board for someone just stepping into the world of computer building. Thus, the highly controversial choice of not using an MSI Pro (or even Tomahawk) ATX-class motherboard is for two reasons. First, mITX boards make for a unique aesthetic and are great conversation starters… while still offering everything 90–95% of builds need (i.e., modern mITX boards are “all killer, no filler”).
Though mainly it is because in a couple of year’s when you outgrow this build all you need do is buy a couple big HDDs, possibly a small air cooler, and stick this mobo/RAM/CPU combo in a Jonsbro case. Then install TrueNAS (or your favorite flavor of Linux) and bam you got a network attach storage server. One that will smoke any QNAP or Synology NAS appliance. Beyond hedonism of streaming movies to your phone over WiFi a NAS is a great way to backup your important files. Like… oh… say your research for your upcoming dissertation!
Moving on.
Over the years, Sealed ‘All-in-One’ Liquid cooling solutions have steadily advanced in both their abilities and overall value. So much so that even ‘budget’ builds really… really should be thinking about ways to include it over, say, a Cooler Master Hyper 212+. Yes, they will cost more, but you get more. Among the latest options available, the various MSI CoreLiquid series distinguishes itself as one of the most compelling options. While we would suggest a “P13” and its redonkulously innovative feature-set, as this is a budget-oriented build, something more along the lines of the 2×120 / “240mm” MSI MAG CoreLiquid 240R V2 would be a better match. Yes. You will lose out on advanced features such as the (actually good) LCD, that sweet sweet EZ Cap, and even the UNI Bracket… but you still get a lot of cooling performance bang for your buck. Put another way, for about twice the cost of a decent ‘tower’ air cooling solution (50 to 60 CAD) you will not only gain better overall cooling performance, you will also get better overall value and access to features that include decent fans, decent waterblock+pump, average to above average overall aesthetics… pretty much everything you could need. Just with everything leaned down to hit its reasonable ~115’ish CAD asking price.
Of course, if your budget can stretch a bit more to ~150 (in Canuckistany Dollars) the MAG CoreLiquid C280 and its 2×140 is a prime choice for upsizing on a budget.
Sure, one could get a 500W or 600W power supply and be fine, but 750W gives you a lot more wiggle room now and in the future. Remember, the rule of thumb is that capacitors inside a PSU lose 5% or more of their capacity for every year of use. So at about $150, it’s a reasonable, safe, and reliable choice that can be carried over from build to build in the coming years.
RAM is a controversial subject these days. Some say you need the fastest RAM you can afford. Others argue that 16GB is still plenty for entry-level systems. Personally, we think both hot takes are wrong. We would never save a few dollars on DDR5 and go for anything below 32GB. Conversely, for the vast, vast majority of builds, DDR5-6000 to 6400 is the sweet spot, with very little real-world performance difference between the two speeds. As such, if a DDR5-6000 kit is cheaper than a 6200 or 6400 kit you have your eye on, go for it. It’s only when you go below 6000 or above 6400 that things start to get questionable in either the performance (sub-6K) or stability (above 6.4K) categories.
The storage choice we have selected is a bit of a “six in one, half a dozen of the other” type of deal. As such, there are two equally strong options that would require us to ask the user some pertinent questions before opting for one over the other. On the one hand, the Spatium M570 Pro is still a great PCIe 5 drive. We have used it in a ton of builds as its combination of excellent real-world performance with equally impressive cooling is a winning one.
On the other hand, the M480 Pro is no slouch, and for about the same cash, you can get 2TB instead of just 1TB. For many, the extra room will easily make up for the slightly lowered real-world performance that “last-generation” NVMe brings to the table. Either way, don’t make the mistake of going for a SATA drive. The savings are not worth it for the OS drive, and even as a “D” drive, the only time we would rely upon SATA is for a niche build with highly specific requirements or when it comes in the form of a mechanical hard drive that offers mega-capacities.
Much like the rest of the build, the specific monitor we would opt for will vary from one build to another, but all three are solid choices. Technically, two of the three are “gaming” monitors and only one is a “serious work monitor.” The reality is that the MSI Pro MP275Q is a more basic model with a basic stand, a lower refresh rate, and a narrower color gamut. However, don’t mistake “basic” and “lower” for being synonymous with “garbage” or “trash tier.” It is still a 1440P, IPS-based monitor with 100% sRGB coverage. Add in a 100Hz refresh rate, and it is a very, very good monitor—just one that comes with a “handicapable” stand. Beyond that, it’s a good way to shave a few dollars off the build budget without really cutting out all that much “meat.”
The two “gaming” monitors, on the other hand, are excellent for not only their price point but can easily compete against more expensive alternatives. Bluntly put, the vast majority of photography and videography editors (at least those not needing 4K resolution) will love what they have to offer. We say that as both are rocking more advanced IPS panels with wider color gamuts (~95% DCI-P3, ~93% Adobe RGB coverage, thanks to their 2-bit FRC for pseudo/faux 10-bit color depth) and deeper, richer blacks. Both also feature rather good stands that are much more flexible than the work monitor’s stand.
Of the two, the G274 has slightly richer colors and a noticeably better anti-glare coating, but it also costs more. Thus, you will have to ask yourself what you need and if you want a monitor to last through multiple upgrades or be replaced in a couple of years with a 4K panel? Answer that, and the optimal panel to buy now will become readily apparent. Just understand that when in doubt, the middle-path G274 is a very safe option.
As for keyboards and mice, those are extremely personal choices, but the mechanical Vigor GK71 Sonic (with a metal top plate) is a very decent choice. While it’s certainly not in the same league as, say, Keychron and their hot-swappable sockets backed by a VIA-based controller (which allows each key to be customizable to make the keyboard your own), it’s a good introduction to the wonderful but weird world of mechanical keyboards.
If a mechanical keyboard is your thing, but portability is just as important, the FORGE GK600 TKL and its wired USB Type-C with 2.4Ghz or Bluetooth connectivity options is hard to beat. Its 1000Hz polling rate, full n-key rollover, and a beefy 4000mAh integrated battery that will outlast even the longest of marathon gaming sessions all add up to one potent but compact package. No matter which way you go, both of these options easily outperform “gaming” keyboards from brands like Logitech and Razer, which are at best “all hat, no cattle.”
The same caveats apply to the mouse. We personally would recommend a trackball, but by micey standards, the VERSA PRO Wireless is a slept-on model that deserves more love. Good sensor (PixART), good switches (OMRON mechanical), good button layout… and above all a nice and grippy feel in an uber-lightweight package (97grams!). Mix in tri-mode connectivity options (USB 2.0, 2.4GHz wireless, and Bluetooth 5.3), and it is the equal, arguably superior, to many of the more popular (and expensive) mice options.
And there you have it. A good entry-level system that, depending on which choices you dial in on, can be relied upon to last years and years, be upgradable… and yet not cost a veritable arm and a leg.
